Mead Made Easy

Second Edition

Acid blend: A mixture of ascorbic and citric acids. Used for adjusting the pH of a must.

Airlock: Used for locking the air out of your fermenter while letting the gases produced by fermentation escape.

B-Brite: A sanitizing solution. Kills bugs dead.

Barley malt: Malted barley.

Blow-off tube: A plastic tube, one end going into the stopper in your fermenter, the other going into a container with some water. It lets extra foam and such blow off from the fermenter, while still working as an airlock.

Bottle capper: Used for putting caps on bottles.

Bottle filler: Used for filling bottles. It's typically got a spring loaded valve on the bottom of it so it doesn't pour mead on your floor.

Bottle, Grolsch-style: A type of beer bottle with a ceramic lid attached by a wire thingie, sealed by a rubber gasket.

Bottle, returnable: Beer used to come in returnable bottles, which would be washed out at the brewery, then relabeled and refilled and sent out with new beer. They were quite sturdy to survive the rigors of handling, and came in heavy cardboard cases, which were also reusable. The deposit on a case of 24 bottles was $1.20.

Bottling bucket: A bucket. Used while bottling. It's used as an intermediate container between the fermenter and the bottles, so you don't have to worry as much about siphoning sediment into your bottles.

Brewing pot: Something vaguely pot-like that you boil stuff in. Bigger than three gallons is good. Stainless steel is best.

Carbonater, The: A handy little cap that screws onto two-litre plastic pop-bottles, and has a ball-lock quick-connect on it that works with CO2 systems. It's a pretty swell way to carbonate up 2 litres of mead or other beverage to see if you want to carbonate more of it. Here's a link to the product description for a stainless-steel version on homebrewing.org. The plastic ones work fine too, and are a bit cheaper.

Carboy: A three, five or six-and-a-half gallon bottle that probably used to hold bottled water. Carboy comes from karabah (I bet I mangled the spelling of that), which means “jug”.

Cetacean: Belonging to an order of marine mammals, including whales and dolphins.

Cheesecloth: Cloth normally used to squeeze the watery stuff out of cheese curds without squeezing cheese all over the kitchen. Handy in general for filtering solids out of liquids.

Chore Boy: A metal scrubby thing you usually use for getting the spilled goo off the top of your stove. It'll work as a filter.

Di-ammonium phosphate: (NH4)2PO4—it's something that yeast need to grow strong and healthy bodies.

Dry-hopping: Tossing hops directly into the fermenter without boiling 'em up in water, i.e. dry.

Electrasol: A dishwashing detergent, the name of which was changed to Finish in the US. Formerly was mostly Trisodium-Phosphate, which kills bugs dead, but I'm not sure what's in the current formula.

Fermentation: Yeast eat sugar, burp CO2, and excrete ethanol. Any questions?

Fermenter: Yet another bucket, except when it's a carboy.

Fermenter, primary: Almost always a bucket. Sometimes open to the air. Sometimes sealed with an airlock. Early stages of fermentation happen here.

Fermenter, secondary: (Optional.) Almost always a carboy. Never open to the air. Always sealed with an airlock. Later stages of fermentation happen here. It's used because in the early stages of fermentation, stuff will settle out. If the brew is left sitting on that stuff for a prolonged period, funky flavors will get into the brew.

Flocculate: To form flocculent masses, which are clumps like wool, according to my dictionary. It's typically used to describe what happens to the yeast when it quits partying and settles out of the must.

Gruit: A mixture of herbs and spices that was used for flavor in early beer and mead brewing. Gruits were replaced by hops, because the recipes for gruits were closely held secrets, whereas it's hard to keep plants a secret.

Hard cider: Fermented apple squeezin's. Yee-Haw!

Hop-boiling bag: A smallish (well, smaller than your head,) bag made of some kind of mesh. They come in either cotton (disposable) or nylon (reusable) varieties. It's like a teabag in that you can pull the chunks out and not have to strain.

Hops: The flower of any plant of the genus Humulus. Used for preserving beer, due to their anti-bacterial properties, and also for bittering it. They look kinda like pine-cones before they get processed into the pellets you buy.

Hydrometer: Used to measure the specific gravity of a liquid.

IBU: International Bittering Units. They measure how bitter a brew is, which you shouldn't worry much about since you'll be making mead, not beer.

Internet mailing list: A keen way of exchanging information between geographically distant parties. Computer and modem required.

Lees: Sediment that forms in fermenting mead. It consists of dead yeast, insoluble proteins, and other particles which precipitate out of solution. Known as trub in brewing.

Lovibond, degrees: A measure of the color of a brew. Higher numbers are darker.

Malted barley: See barley malt.

Mead: An alcoholic beverage made by fermenting honey. Also known as meathe in older tymes. From the Sanskrit madhu, which meant honey.

Must: A mixture of fermentable sugars, typically from fruits, and water.

Neutral grain spirits: Ever Clear. Wee-Haw! It's alcohol with only as much water as is required by the laws of physics. About 192 proof.

Peak flavor: Good taste. Fermented beverages are icky straight out of the fermenter and need some aging to taste good.

Pectin: A carbohydrate found in fruits that tends to clump up and make jelly after you boil it.

Pitching yeast: The act of tossing yeast into your fermenter. It sounds technical, which is probably why brewers say pitching instead of tossing.

Rack: The act of siphoning the mead off a layer of sediment, leaving the sediment behind, which leads to a clearer mead.

Sediment: Stuff that settles out of a mixture. The gunk on the bottom of the bucket.

Siphon: Pulling liquid up a tube, down the same tube, and into another container. One practical application is transferring mead from a fermenter into bottles. Another is getting gasoline in your mouth. The first is more pleasurable.

Sodium phosphates: Nax(PO4)y—Many are good at killing bugs dead.

Specific gravity: The ratio of the density of a given liquid to the density of water, and like that. It's a way to measure how much stuff you've dissolved in water. Typically sugars, in our case.

Trub: Sediment. Especially dead yeasties and fruit skins. The leftovers in the bottom of the fermenter. Looks kinda like baby diarrhea.

Wild yeast: Saccharomyces that haven't been hanging around man long enough, so they're not much good for baking bread or brewing beer, wine or mead.

Wort: Beer before it's any fun. A mix of malted barley, hops and water.

Yeast hulls: The dehydrated skins of dead little yeasts. Contain all the essential nutrients to make more yeast.

Yeast nutrient: Things that build strong yeasts twelve ways. If you haven't read the chapter on Yeast Nutrient, now would be a good time.

#glossary


Prev Next

Mead

Acton, Bryan & Duncan, Peter. Making Mead: a Complete Guide to the Making of Sweet & Dry Mead, Melomel, Metheglin, Hippocras, Pyment & Cyser. Ann Arbor, MI: G.W. Kent Inc., 1984.

Dick Dunn, moderator. The Mead Lovers Mailing List. Archived at GotMead.

Furness, Clara. Honey Wines and Beers. Northern Bee Books, 1987.

Gayre, Lt. Colonel Robert, et al. Brewing Mead/Wassail! In Mazers of Mead. Boulder, CO: Brewers Publications, 1986.

Morse, Roger A. Making Mead: (Honey Wine): History, Recipes, Methods and Equipment. Cheshire, CT: Wickwas Press, 1980.

Spence, Pamela. Mad About Mead: Nectar of the Gods. St. Paul, MN: Llewellyn Publications, 1997.

Honey

Crane, Eva. A Book of Honey. Northern Bee Books, 2019.

Crane, Eva. Honey: A Comprehensive Survey. Northern Bee Books, 2020.

Graham, Joe; Ambrose, J & Langstroth, L. The Hive and the Honey Bee. Dadant & Sons, 1992.

General Brewing

Bravery, H.E. Home Brewing Without Failures. New York: Gramercy, 1965.

Garshol, Lars Marius. Historical Brewing Techniques: The Lost Art of Farmhouse Brewing. Boulder, CO: Brewers Publications, 2020.

Loysen, Tracy; Papazian, Charlie; and Raizman, Marjie, eds. Winner's Circle: 10 Years of Award-Winning Homebrew Recipes. Boulder, CO: Brewers Publications, 1989.

Papazian, Charlie. The Complete Joy Of Homebrewing. New York: Avon Books, 1984.

Papazian, Charlie. The Home Brewers Companion. New York: Avon Books, 1994.

Historical Brewing

Brown, Sanborn Connor. Wines & Beers of Old New England: A How-To-Do-It History. Hanover, NH: The University Press of New England, 1998.

Digbie, Sir Kenelme. The Closet of the Eminently Learned Sir Kenelme Digbie, Knight, Opened: Whereby is Discovered several ways for making of Metheglin, Sider, Cherry-wine &c.; Together with Excellent Directions for Cookery: As also for Preserving, Conserving, Candying, &c.; England: Private Issue, 1667.

Evaine, Lady Arwen. The Compleat Anachronist Handbook of Brewing (The Compleat Anachronist #5). Milpitas, CA: Society for Creative Anachronism, 1983.

Shapiro, Marc. Alcoholic Drinks of the Middle Ages (The Compleat Anachronist #60). Milpitas, CA: Society for Creative Anachronism, 1992.

Verberg, Susan. Of Hony Brewing Medieval and Renaissance Mead (The Compleat Anachronist #176). Milpitas, CA: Society for Creative Anachronism, 2017.

Wine and Winemaking

American Wine Society Presents, The. The Complete Handbook of Winemaking. Ann Arbor, MI: G.W. Kent, Inc., 1994.

Duncan, Peter & Acton, Bryan. Progressive Winemaking. Ann Arbor, MI: G.W. Kent Inc., 1967.

Gulling, Rich & Vargas, Pattie. Country Wines: Making and Using Wines from Herbs, Fruits, Flowers, and More. Pownal, VT: Storey Publishing, 1992.

Yeast

Papazian, Charlie, ed. Zymurgy, Yeast & Beer, Special Issue 1989.

Weix, Patrick. Become Saccharomyces Savvy. Zymurgy, Summer 1994. pp 44-51.

#bibliography


Prev Next

To give your yeast the best chances for happy and productive lives, you need to give them a proper upbringing. This is pretty easy to do with a starter solution. There are a couple different starters I've used over the years. The easiest one is just a quart bottle of pasteurized, unpreserved apple juice (unfiltered seems to work a little better). Just toss the yeast in, and seal with an airlock. If you do this about 24 hours before the must is ready for the yeast, they'll have time to be fruitful and multiply, and will be off to a good start. You can also make a starter according to the directions on the yeast package (if there are any). Alternatively, you can mix up starter as follows: Add 4 oz (¼ lb) dry light malt extract to a quart of boiling water. Boil it for 15 minutes or so. Pour into sterile quart container, leaving an inch or two of free space at the top (it probably won't all fit—just dump any leftovers) and cover loosely. When this has cooled to about body temperature (baby-bottle temp), toss in the yeast and seal with an airlock. Again, if you do this about 24 hours before the must is ready for the yeast, they'll have a nice head start on growing into nice upstanding citizens and making good mead for you. If you don't have malt extract on hand, sugar can be substituted, but you'll need to add a teaspoon or so of yeast nutrient.

#appendix


Prev Next

#appendix

There are a number of ways to clarify meads. Which you use depends on what's clouding your mead.

If yeast is still in suspension, the best thing to do is probably to wait. The yeast will naturally settle in time. Bentonite, which is a negatively charged clay and will attach to the positively charged yeast, can also be added to take the yeast out of suspension more quickly.

On the other hand, it's possible to have a haze of tannins. Traditionally, egg white or fresh blood from the slaughterhouse were used to clear tannin hazes. The reason these work is that the tannins and other bits of haze are typically negatively charged. Adding positively charged particles, such as proteins, will neutralize the charges, allowing the particles to clump together and settle out of solution more quickly. Today, gelatin is usually used.

If you use too much gelatin, and go from having a tannin haze to having a gelatin haze, you can add Bentonite.

More information is available at The Science of Cidermaking: When things go wrong. There is also a great page on how to use Sparkolloid at How to Home Brew Beer.

#appendix #clarifying


Prev Next

#appendix

When I initially published the first edition of this book in paper form, there wasn't a section on siphoning. This was because I assumed that anyone who was going to make mead would have brewed something else before and been exposed to siphoning at that point. The one review I got of the book (Brewing Techniques . September/October 1995, pg 92.) mentioned that the reviewer would have been clueless about how to siphon if he hadn't learned siphoning as part of having learned to make beer. Anyway, to address that complaint, I've added this short section on siphoning to the html version.

The theory of siphoning

Water (or any other liquid) will try and achieve a level surface. Another way of stating this is that water flows downhill. The goal of siphoning is to give the liquid a path from one container to another. Since it has to flow briefly uphill, the way to do this is to have a closed tube full of water, and then the weight of the liquid on the downhill side of the tube will be greater than the weight on the uphill side, and gravity will do it's thing. This is an over-simplification, but it holds until the uphill side gets into many feet of height. If you want a much more complete desciption of the physics involved, Halliday & Resnick, which was my college physics textbook has one, as does Charlie Papazian's Complete Joy of Homebrewing.

The practice of siphoning

What you want to do is achieve a tube full of liquid leading from the higher, full container to the lower, empty container. There are a few ways to do this. The easiest method I've found is to take your siphon tube, and fill it with water (just don't empty it out when you rinse it the final time after sanitizing it). It doesn't have to be absolutely full, but having the water within a couple inches of each end will be best. You hold both ends of the tube at about the same height, and lower one of them into the full container, and once it's in the liquid, lower the other one to the empty container. Your mead will start flowing. The other method is the tried and true “sucking” method. What you do is place one end of the tubing in the full container, bend down to the empty container, and suck on the lower end of the tube until the mead starts to flow.

In both cases, there are two things to watch out for. One is to have the lower end of the siphon tube close enough to the bottom of the container you're siphoning to that the mead doesn't spash around and get aerated, which can give your brew an oxidized flavor (tastes like wet cardboard. Bleh). The other is to keep the upper end of the tube below any floaties in the liquid you're siphoning, and above any sinkies sitting on the bottom.

Each method has its pluses and minuses. Working with a siphon tube full of liquid can be a little tricky your first few tries, and even after you've mastered the technique, you're liable to spill a little. You also dilute your mead a little with the water you have in the tube. Sucking on the tube adds the possibility that you'll get some bacteria from your mouth into your mead. The dilution isn't a big deal, unless you're working with a very small batch. When you're bottling, the dilution means that your first bottle goes to waste. As for infection from the bacteria in your mouth, you can always sterilize your mouth briefly with a little firewater. I'm partial to Wild Turkey or Rumpelminze.

One last thing that can cause problems for you is that if the liquid you're siphoning has a lot of dissolved gas in it (carbon dioxide in a carbonated liquid, for example), that gas will tend to come out of solution at the top of the siphon-tube. The only real way to solve this problem is to make the uphill leg of the tube shorter by tipping the upper container. If the amount of gas in the tube gets to be too much, the siphon will stop, and you'll need to restart it. No big worry, but it's a hassle. The point is, try not to have to siphon carbonated liquids, and if you do, keep the uphill leg of the siphon as short as possible.

#appendix #siphon


Prev Next

#appendix

Recently (in 1995) on the The Mead Lover's Digest there was a question about the names of the various bottle sizes used for wines and champagnes.

Many people researched the answer, and I've collected the best of the research here.

By far, the most complete answer came from Michael L. Hall, but there were other contributions I've included, too.

Name of Bottle Applied to Size (litres) Size (bottles) Size (other)
Quarter Bottle Champagne 0.1875 ¼
Piccolo Champagne 0.1875 ¼
Half Bottle All 0.375 ½
Split Champagne 0.375 ½
Fillette Bordeaux 0.375 ½
Pot Beaujolais 0.5
Imperial Pint Champagne 0.588 0.784 20 fl. oz.
Bottle All 0.75 1
Magnum All 1.5 2
Tappit Hen Port 2.27 3
Marie-Jeanne Bordeaux 2.25 3
Double Magnum Wine 3 4
Jeroboam Champagne 3 4
Jeroboam Port 3 4
Rehoboam Champagne 4.5 6
Jeroboam Bordeaux 4.5 6
Imperial Wine 6 8
Methuselah Champagne 6 8
Salmanazar All 9 12
Balthazar All 12 16
Nebuchadnezzar All 15 20
Sovereign Champagne 25 33⅓
Barrel Wine 119 31.5 gal
Hogshead Wine 238 63 gal
Pipe Port Wine 476 126 gal
Tun Wine 953 1270 252 gal

Sources used: * Jane MacQuitty's Pocket Guide to Champagne and Sparkling Wines, by Mitchell Beazley (England), ISBN 0-85533-619-6 * Random House Unabridged Dictionary, ISBN 0-67942-917-4 * The Wine Spectator * International Critical Tables, 1926, National Academy of Sciences, McGraw-Hill * Alexis Lichines' New Encyclopedia of Wines and Spirits, Appendix C * The Mead Lover's Digest

#appendix


Prev Next

#appendix

Dave Polaschek was a Mac programmer by day, and avid homebrewer (and homebrew drinker) by night and on weekends. He noticed a lack of books on how to make mead when people started pointing it out to him and saying “Hey, you know stuff. You should write a book,” so he did. He’s now retired and made time to finish the second edition of Mead Made Easy he’d been planning for over two decades.

Tim Mitchell is a freelance author and stand-up comedian. Lacking a real job has given him plenty of time and incentive to drink free mead with Dave. He was last seen on a streetcorner holding up a sign which read “Will Edit For Booze.”

#about


Prev

Kumis is a fermented drink traditionally produced from mare's milk, which is higher in lactose than cow's milk. It's a quick fermentation, taking from a few hours to a few days, and typically a low-alcohol finished product (0.7-2.5%, according to wikipedia). This isn't especially surprising as standard brewing yeasts can't digest lactose.

It's still produced in areas of the former USSR and Mongolia, and there are those within the SCA who brew kumiss, often by adding cane sugar to cow's milk. The major difficulty seems to be preventing the casein (milk protein) from coagulating during the fermentation and acidic conditions created, and preventing bottles from exploding due to not using airlocks, instead uncorking a bottle daily to relieve pressure.

Another approach that has been suggested is using Kluyveromyces lactis, which was formerly known as Saccharomyces lactis, which will convert the lactose to lactic acid.

If you've done more experimentation with kumis, I'd love to hear about it. Please check the contact page for how to get in touch.

#appendix #kumis


Prev Next

#appendix

A common question when fermenting mead is When is it done fermenting? Well, it's an art not a science, you see....

On a more practical note, there are two methods I use.

The first is highly scientific. I measure the gravity of the mead with a hydrometer. For a recipe like Hangover Cyser, it'll finish up very near or below 1.000 in gravity. There's more on using a hydrometer in the next chapter.

The second method is my more typical one. I let the mead ferment until I think it's done (if it doesn't bubble once in the time it takes me to microwave and eat dinner, that's a pretty good sign), and then wait another week to be sure. At this point, it's either gotten mostly clear, or there's enough suspended goo that I don't want to bottle yet. If it's clear, it gets racked into a bottling bucket and thence to the bottles. If it's cloudy, I rack it into another gallong jug (or into the bottling bucket, and then back to the original jug, after making sure to wash it out well), and let it sit until it does get clear.

The main points of the second method are: the fermenter is not still bubbling and the mead has cleared.

Sometimes a mead just won't clear. Then I grumble and hide it in the closet and come back to it in a month or three. If it's still cloudy, I shrug and bottle it cloudy. More impatient sorts add various items to the mix to clear the mead, but that's another discussion.

#howTo


Prev Next

During a discussion on ice distillation in August of 2000, a home brewer who was also an agent from ATF made the following comment:

Because of the uncanny resemblance to a concentrate made from beer, the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms has written a formal ruling on “ice beer.” Essentially, it states that if a brewer superchills beer and removes ice or water, the product will be considered to be ordinary “beer” if the volume of material removed is not more than ½ of 1% of the original volume, and if the resultant product resembles “beer.”

This ruling was issued to prevent brewers from producing an “ice beer” which is seriously concentrated by the removal of water or ice. Classic beer concentrates often are 15% alc/vol or more and may have only ¼ of their original volume. These products are taxed as distilled spirits if they are removed from a brewery or imported without being reconstituted with water.

The eisbock or ice beer method of production would be considered as ordinary home beer making and home brewers could use the method if they wished. ATF's primary interest would be, as usual, to ensure home brewers were not selling the beer they make.

The Ruling was issued as 94-3, but has presumably been rolled into the ATF regulations since then. But if you are freeze-distilling mead, keep in mind that phrase: the product will be considered to be ordinary “beer” if the volume of material removed is not more than ½ of 1% of the original volume, and if the resultant product resembles “beer.”

#appendix #USLaw


Prev Next

#appendix

Enter your email to subscribe to updates.