Mead Made Easy

appendix

To give your yeast the best chances for happy and productive lives, you need to give them a proper upbringing. This is pretty easy to do with a starter solution. There are a couple different starters I've used over the years. The easiest one is just a quart bottle of pasteurized, unpreserved apple juice (unfiltered seems to work a little better). Just toss the yeast in, and seal with an airlock. If you do this about 24 hours before the must is ready for the yeast, they'll have time to be fruitful and multiply, and will be off to a good start. You can also make a starter according to the directions on the yeast package (if there are any). Alternatively, you can mix up starter as follows: Add 4 oz (¼ lb) dry light malt extract to a quart of boiling water. Boil it for 15 minutes or so. Pour into sterile quart container, leaving an inch or two of free space at the top (it probably won't all fit—just dump any leftovers) and cover loosely. When this has cooled to about body temperature (baby-bottle temp), toss in the yeast and seal with an airlock. Again, if you do this about 24 hours before the must is ready for the yeast, they'll have a nice head start on growing into nice upstanding citizens and making good mead for you. If you don't have malt extract on hand, sugar can be substituted, but you'll need to add a teaspoon or so of yeast nutrient.

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#appendix

There are a number of ways to clarify meads. Which you use depends on what's clouding your mead.

If yeast is still in suspension, the best thing to do is probably to wait. The yeast will naturally settle in time. Bentonite, which is a negatively charged clay and will attach to the positively charged yeast, can also be added to take the yeast out of suspension more quickly.

On the other hand, it's possible to have a haze of tannins. Traditionally, egg white or fresh blood from the slaughterhouse were used to clear tannin hazes. The reason these work is that the tannins and other bits of haze are typically negatively charged. Adding positively charged particles, such as proteins, will neutralize the charges, allowing the particles to clump together and settle out of solution more quickly. Today, gelatin is usually used.

If you use too much gelatin, and go from having a tannin haze to having a gelatin haze, you can add Bentonite.

More information is available at The Science of Cidermaking: When things go wrong. There is also a great page on how to use Sparkolloid at How to Home Brew Beer.

#appendix #clarifying


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#appendix

When I initially published the first edition of this book in paper form, there wasn't a section on siphoning. This was because I assumed that anyone who was going to make mead would have brewed something else before and been exposed to siphoning at that point. The one review I got of the book (Brewing Techniques . September/October 1995, pg 92.) mentioned that the reviewer would have been clueless about how to siphon if he hadn't learned siphoning as part of having learned to make beer. Anyway, to address that complaint, I've added this short section on siphoning to the html version.

The theory of siphoning

Water (or any other liquid) will try and achieve a level surface. Another way of stating this is that water flows downhill. The goal of siphoning is to give the liquid a path from one container to another. Since it has to flow briefly uphill, the way to do this is to have a closed tube full of water, and then the weight of the liquid on the downhill side of the tube will be greater than the weight on the uphill side, and gravity will do it's thing. This is an over-simplification, but it holds until the uphill side gets into many feet of height. If you want a much more complete desciption of the physics involved, Halliday & Resnick, which was my college physics textbook has one, as does Charlie Papazian's Complete Joy of Homebrewing.

The practice of siphoning

What you want to do is achieve a tube full of liquid leading from the higher, full container to the lower, empty container. There are a few ways to do this. The easiest method I've found is to take your siphon tube, and fill it with water (just don't empty it out when you rinse it the final time after sanitizing it). It doesn't have to be absolutely full, but having the water within a couple inches of each end will be best. You hold both ends of the tube at about the same height, and lower one of them into the full container, and once it's in the liquid, lower the other one to the empty container. Your mead will start flowing. The other method is the tried and true “sucking” method. What you do is place one end of the tubing in the full container, bend down to the empty container, and suck on the lower end of the tube until the mead starts to flow.

In both cases, there are two things to watch out for. One is to have the lower end of the siphon tube close enough to the bottom of the container you're siphoning to that the mead doesn't spash around and get aerated, which can give your brew an oxidized flavor (tastes like wet cardboard. Bleh). The other is to keep the upper end of the tube below any floaties in the liquid you're siphoning, and above any sinkies sitting on the bottom.

Each method has its pluses and minuses. Working with a siphon tube full of liquid can be a little tricky your first few tries, and even after you've mastered the technique, you're liable to spill a little. You also dilute your mead a little with the water you have in the tube. Sucking on the tube adds the possibility that you'll get some bacteria from your mouth into your mead. The dilution isn't a big deal, unless you're working with a very small batch. When you're bottling, the dilution means that your first bottle goes to waste. As for infection from the bacteria in your mouth, you can always sterilize your mouth briefly with a little firewater. I'm partial to Wild Turkey or Rumpelminze.

One last thing that can cause problems for you is that if the liquid you're siphoning has a lot of dissolved gas in it (carbon dioxide in a carbonated liquid, for example), that gas will tend to come out of solution at the top of the siphon-tube. The only real way to solve this problem is to make the uphill leg of the tube shorter by tipping the upper container. If the amount of gas in the tube gets to be too much, the siphon will stop, and you'll need to restart it. No big worry, but it's a hassle. The point is, try not to have to siphon carbonated liquids, and if you do, keep the uphill leg of the siphon as short as possible.

#appendix #siphon


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#appendix

Recently (in 1995) on the The Mead Lover's Digest there was a question about the names of the various bottle sizes used for wines and champagnes.

Many people researched the answer, and I've collected the best of the research here.

By far, the most complete answer came from Michael L. Hall, but there were other contributions I've included, too.

Name of Bottle Applied to Size (litres) Size (bottles) Size (other)
Quarter Bottle Champagne 0.1875 ¼
Piccolo Champagne 0.1875 ¼
Half Bottle All 0.375 ½
Split Champagne 0.375 ½
Fillette Bordeaux 0.375 ½
Pot Beaujolais 0.5
Imperial Pint Champagne 0.588 0.784 20 fl. oz.
Bottle All 0.75 1
Magnum All 1.5 2
Tappit Hen Port 2.27 3
Marie-Jeanne Bordeaux 2.25 3
Double Magnum Wine 3 4
Jeroboam Champagne 3 4
Jeroboam Port 3 4
Rehoboam Champagne 4.5 6
Jeroboam Bordeaux 4.5 6
Imperial Wine 6 8
Methuselah Champagne 6 8
Salmanazar All 9 12
Balthazar All 12 16
Nebuchadnezzar All 15 20
Sovereign Champagne 25 33⅓
Barrel Wine 119 31.5 gal
Hogshead Wine 238 63 gal
Pipe Port Wine 476 126 gal
Tun Wine 953 1270 252 gal

Sources used: * Jane MacQuitty's Pocket Guide to Champagne and Sparkling Wines, by Mitchell Beazley (England), ISBN 0-85533-619-6 * Random House Unabridged Dictionary, ISBN 0-67942-917-4 * The Wine Spectator * International Critical Tables, 1926, National Academy of Sciences, McGraw-Hill * Alexis Lichines' New Encyclopedia of Wines and Spirits, Appendix C * The Mead Lover's Digest

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#appendix

Kumis is a fermented drink traditionally produced from mare's milk, which is higher in lactose than cow's milk. It's a quick fermentation, taking from a few hours to a few days, and typically a low-alcohol finished product (0.7-2.5%, according to wikipedia). This isn't especially surprising as standard brewing yeasts can't digest lactose.

It's still produced in areas of the former USSR and Mongolia, and there are those within the SCA who brew kumiss, often by adding cane sugar to cow's milk. The major difficulty seems to be preventing the casein (milk protein) from coagulating during the fermentation and acidic conditions created, and preventing bottles from exploding due to not using airlocks, instead uncorking a bottle daily to relieve pressure.

Another approach that has been suggested is using Kluyveromyces lactis, which was formerly known as Saccharomyces lactis, which will convert the lactose to lactic acid.

If you've done more experimentation with kumis, I'd love to hear about it. Please check the contact page for how to get in touch.

#appendix #kumis


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#appendix

During a discussion on ice distillation in August of 2000, a home brewer who was also an agent from ATF made the following comment:

Because of the uncanny resemblance to a concentrate made from beer, the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms has written a formal ruling on “ice beer.” Essentially, it states that if a brewer superchills beer and removes ice or water, the product will be considered to be ordinary “beer” if the volume of material removed is not more than ½ of 1% of the original volume, and if the resultant product resembles “beer.”

This ruling was issued to prevent brewers from producing an “ice beer” which is seriously concentrated by the removal of water or ice. Classic beer concentrates often are 15% alc/vol or more and may have only ¼ of their original volume. These products are taxed as distilled spirits if they are removed from a brewery or imported without being reconstituted with water.

The eisbock or ice beer method of production would be considered as ordinary home beer making and home brewers could use the method if they wished. ATF's primary interest would be, as usual, to ensure home brewers were not selling the beer they make.

The Ruling was issued as 94-3, but has presumably been rolled into the ATF regulations since then. But if you are freeze-distilling mead, keep in mind that phrase: the product will be considered to be ordinary “beer” if the volume of material removed is not more than ½ of 1% of the original volume, and if the resultant product resembles “beer.”

#appendix #USLaw


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#appendix

Degrees Brix are a measure of the amount of sugar in a fruit juice. The US Government provides a table of the amount of sugar in 100% fruit juices for various types of fruits in 21 CFR 101.30‹h›‹1› which I reproduce here.

This is handy if you're trying to guess how much fermentable sugar there will be in a must based on the ingredients, but the most accurate result will come from actually measuring with a hydrometer.

Juice Brix
Acerola 6.0
Apple 11.5
Apricot 11.7
Banana 22.0
Blackberry 10.0
Blueberry 10.0
Boysenberry 10.0
Cantaloupe Melon 9.6
Carambola 7.8
Carrot 8.0
Casaba Melon 7.5
Cashew (Caju) 12.0
Celery 3.1
Cherry, dark, sweet 20.0
Cherry, red, sour 14.0
Crabapple 15.4
Cranberry 7.5
Currant (Black) 11.0
Currant (Red) 10.5
Date 18.5
Dewberry 10.0
Elderberry 11.0
Fig 18.2
Gooseberry 8.3
Grape 16.0
Grapefruit 10.0
Guanabana (soursop) 16.0
Guava 7.7
Honeydew melon 9.6
Kiwi 15.4
Lemon 4.5
Lime 4.5
Loganberry 10.5
Mango 13.0
Nectarine 11.8
Orange 11.8
Papaya 11.5
Passion Fruit 14.0
Peach 10.5
Pear 12.0
Pineapple 12.8
Plum 14.3
Pomegranate 16.0
Prune 18.5
Quince 13.3
Raspberry (Black) 11.1
Raspberry (Red) 9.2
Rhubarb 5.7
Strawberry 8.0
Tangerine 11.8
Tomato 5.0
Watermelon 7.8
Youngberry 10.0

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#appendix

There are four basic bottle types used for bottling mead and other fermented beverages. They are: screw-top bottles, reusable cappable bottles, corkable bottles, and grolsch-style bottles with a rubber washer.

Screw-top bottles are becoming much more common in the wine world. You can buy screw-caps of your own, but make sure you know which size you need (28mm and 38mm are both common) and also that you know how to use them correctly. I don't, so I avoid them.

Plastic screw-top bottles (such as carbonated beverages are commonly sold in) are fine for short-term storage, but I won't keep mead in one for more than a day or two. When I do use them, it's to take a bottle to a party, and I generally fill it the night before.

Reusable, cappable bottles were typically beer bottles sold as returnables. They were sturdy and my first choice for bottling mead for long-term storage. Capping is relatively simple, and bottle cappers can be easily bought. But returnable bottles are a thing of the past. You can buy similar bottles at homebrewing stores.

Corkable bottles are standard wine bottles. They may have a lip which can also be capped, but most don't. Corking is another time-proven method, but corking requires a bottle-corker and you need to soak the corks so they can be compressed enough to get them into the bottle. I tried corking bottles once, and found it frustrating, but that was before “agglomerated” or “composite” corks. If you're going to cork bottles, I strongly suggest a floor-model corker which will give you the leverage and controllability you need to make corking bottles easy.

Grolsch-style bottles (also known as swing-top bottles) have a ceramic stopper with a rubber washer. They're simple and as long as the washer is good, they provide a good seal. They can also be re-sealed partway through, if you can't finish a bottle. The main drawback to them is they're more expensive than the other types of bottles.

#appendix #equipment


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#appendix